Category Archives: photography

July 4, Lava Springs to Montpelier Idaho

Everyone warned us that there was a huge climb over a pass out of Lava Springs so we got out (somewhat reluctantly) right after breakfast.
The climb was twelve miles of up but since it was early, the sun wasn’t merciless and we made it up just fine.

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After that it was 2.5 miles of 5% grade down (just like the yellow-orange sign said) and for me, that’s the scary part. Over and into the shoulder of the road at that downhill speed can really do you some damage. The climbs can be brutal but no chance you’re going to hurt yourself on one.
Anyhow I break a lot in the downhill, Sarita flies and no one gets hurt.
It’s always amazing to me how the landscape on the other side of the pass always looks completely different.

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A little more than twenty miles puts us in Soda Springs where we make our usual grocery store stop. Or not so usual.

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I love that all of these were over the pet food aisle.

After the grocery store we went to the geyser which is carbonated naturally. In the early 1900s people were drilling for warm water and tapped into this majorly explosive source. They could not use the water for anything as it was so heavily laden with minerals. The geyser was so powerful that soon after its discovery the Secretary of the Interior (US Gov’t) contacted the city of Soda Springs because their geyser was upsetting the schedule of “Old Faithful” which was world famous. Therefore Soda’s geyser is now artificially regulated and goes off every hour on the hour.
We were there for it.

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We knew what we were there for and we even had a watch but I was shocked almost to the point of screaming when the thing went off. It was so powerful and 70 feet high!

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There was a 4th of July Fair going on and we bought a homemade chocolate chip cookie bigger than a salad plate and a paperback novel for only a dollar. We passed on the quilt raffle and continued our way under the now hot sun of 6,000 feet plus.

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We rode on another thirty miles with no shade so we stopped by a tree on someone’s yard and ate the peanut butter and jelly sandwiches we had made at our Lava Springs all-to-can-eat buffet breakfast.
We did another surprise summit before the town of Georgetown, Idaho. I don’t know why the photo is so hazy. Perhaps the heat?

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We were very tired by then and hoping for some cool drink in Georgetown even though it only had a population of 200.
We came upon this building there that had “EAT” in big letters on it’s roof but when we got closer, it was closed and for sale. This happens to us several times a day.

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Finally we made it to Montpelier and there was nothing there either even though it’s name on the map was in bigger print as the town’s huge population was 2,100.

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We couldn’t find the KOA so we called. It was 2 miles off the highway and I called to ask if there was any food there and the lady said there was food, like breakfast burritos and pizza. She made it sound like food. We went the 2 miles and found the KOA and the “food” was packages (of chemicals) in the freezer box ready to be microwaved.
We rode back to the grocery store and got food. As it was 4th of July and there were red white and blue decorations everywhere.
There are always lots of flags around these parts and usually a black MIA/POW flag flying with them. There are also many yellow ribbons tied on trees. If there are no trees, then the ribbons are tied on posts.


The police were out in force in Montpelier giving tickets to drivers for precious little. When we were biking back from the grocery store we saw them pull over the people in the tent site next to ours.
For the last two weeks we have seen countless fireworks shacks on street corners but now that the 4th is here there’s a $500 fine for setting them off as the unusually high temperatures and winds are making fires that are demolishing homes.
Sarita and I did our clothes in the laundry as usual. To save time, we changed quickly in the laundry room as everyone else was at the campground 4th’s activity. We locked the door as we did this and then went back to the site. It happened then that Sarita couldn’t find her cell phone so we went back to the laundry room to find it but we had locked it shut. We went back to the office to tell the lady who didn’t know what food was that we had locked the door by mistake and even confessed that it had happened as we were changing. She advised that we should never do that as there is a surveillance camera in the laundry whose images are shown in the office!
Why have a surveillance camera in a small room with two washers and two dryers and one sink?
In the bathroom there was 24/7 CNN news program on a screen in the wall!
It was a weird KOA that had a sign at the entrance (pretty much in the middle of nowhere) that said, “No public restrooms” as if you couldn’t “go” anywhere around there. I was looking forward to getting out of there.
We went to sleep in the tent listening to private fireworks.

July 3rd, Lava Springs

We hung out here for the day at the  Lava Springs Mineral Bath Inn. It is a very old place and not kept up too well. It’s ten bucks more than the campsite and has everything in one place so we are down with it.

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It’s sort of like belonging to a club. Room comes with an all you can eat for breakfast which is where we met the clan which is this huge white multigenerational family staying here for a family reunion. We pass them here and there around town which is six blocks of “Main Street”. We share a bathroom across the hall.

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All the towns we’ve been in have their initials marked on a hill above, this is just the first time I’ve documented it.
There is native American influenced splashed around here and there as well.

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The mineral baths pools, of which there are many of different temperature and sizes, are super relaxing. They have lots of minerals in them, those being manganese, calcium bicarbonate, sodium, zinc, sulfate, potassium, magnesium and fluoride.

The other BIG thing here is to “float” down the river in an innertube

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When we were having lunch at the taco truck (after being told there was no Mexican food in town), we encountered a guy who had very badly scraped his foot so that clued us in about needing shoes when tubing down the quickly moving river.
We rented our innertubes, which were huge, and walked up to the put-in point of the river, resigned to soaking our specialized pricey bike shoes.
There is a reason you sign a piece of paper with lots of small print absolving the tube people from anything that may happen on the river. The lady explained that this is not a theme park tide but a real river with rocks and trees and such. We were told since we were new at this not to go down the difficult waterfall but we were clueless and went over everything because we didn’t know any better. It was super scary and fast and I could never get the thing to point in the right direction so I was continually swirling and going over rapids backward. All in all it was fun but too scary to do more than once and we were super glad we had our shoes which dried by dinner time in the intense sun.
After the “float” we had the massages I’d scheduled for Sa and I!  My neck and upper back feel locked into a permanent biking position and I’d been hoping for a massage for a while now.
It was the best oil massage I’d ever had! and that’s saying a lot since I’m at Esalen often.
This town is a strange mixture of conservative redneck (general area) and new age (mineral baths) and we’ve enjoyed it tremendously.
Here is another shot of the square scoop ice team shop. By the way, you never say “soda” in Idaho. It’s “pop”.

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July2, Day 14, Blackfoot to Lava Springs

We got out of Blackfoot as fast as we could and were on the road when it was still cool at eight. Blackfoot was nowhere in a big way. It was a quick stop of giant chain stores at the end of the nuclear reactor zone.
What does the US Government put next to miles and miles of unattractive, nuclear zone, desolation wilderness? An Indian reservation, of course. this is home to the Shoshone and Bannock tribes.

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We went to their gas station/store just a little after eight in the morning. On the way to the bathroom we passed the casino which had very low lighting except for the brightly colored numbers and symbols on all the machines.


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We biked on to see that the tribes knew exactly what to do with the parched land. Fizzy rainbow moments happened repeatedly from all the spraying irrigation going on. The land was beautiful with lots and lots of horses. We saw so many horses today in almost trite like situations it was so pretty. Horses galloping through pastures like they were playing and pairs of gorgeously groomed horses drinking at the rivers edge. This continued throughout the day, even after the reservation. Gorgeous horses in every landscape.

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In Pocatello, Idaho we had an amazing experience at a store named Barrie’s Ski and Sports. We were passing by and I noticed they were a Specialized dealer so I had us go in. We went straight back to the bike repair area and explained ( the way we do) that we are biking across country and could they (pretty please) check over our bikes. (fill our tires, clean and lube chain, check breaks and derailer etc) so this saint like vey cool (and good looking) young man named Bailor got our bikes from tired to good as new. Also I wasn’t sure my big fall hadn’t done damage to my bike of which I was unaware. We chatted with Bailor and also a fellow named Dennis who had two very very top of the line racing bikes with him. These fellows told us how to get to Lava Springs using back roads which was great as all the maps made it look like we’d have to do some miles on the interstate. Wondrously Bailor did not charge us for any of his work! and Dennis bought us four packs of Cliff Shot Block (energy chews)! Their kindness was breathtaking and we felt hugely supported.
Most of the trip today, a fast moving small river has been beside us. We ate our lunch by it today and tomorrow we are not going to bike but float in innertubes down the river.

We have seen a lot of animals on the trip. We see many cows and they always look up with curious intelligence as we pass. We’ve also seen alpacas and gazelles and lamas and antelope and elk.
Today, on the reservation, we had a pack of four scruffy black dogs chase us barking. Often dogs start barking and running for us when we pass but until today they’ve been contained by chains and fences. We had to outrun these black dogs with them yapping at our feet. It was scary but quickly over.
The landscape today was fantastic even if under a harsh hot hot dry sky. Rolling hills weren’t difficult but the heat was. Twice today I noticed elegant large wildflowers blooming by the side of the road and they gave me encouragement to continue on under the merciless sun of 6,000 feet elevation to our Lava Springs destination (only a 60 mile day).
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Lava Hot Springs and are staying at a place over 100 years old that has five mineral bath pools. There is also a giant swimming pool with everything imaginable. It is like an amusement park itself.

Idaho apparently is the land of the square ice cream scoop. Go figure.
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July 1,Day 13, Arco to Blackfoot Idaho

Well there is no food or water or shade for the next 65 miles so we are stocking up in Arco.
Had a home cooked breakfast at the local place (Pickles Place….painted bright green) and then we went back to the site to do laundry.
We had a lovely stay at the KOA which is way more expensive than other campsites (same as hotels here) but you get what you pay for.

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We left Arco at one pm after breakfast and laundry and going to the grocery store and getting food and water to last us the next 65 miles.
We liked Arco and everyone was very dressed up; men in suits and all for church today. The buildings there were all original and here are some of them. This town continues to exist because people go to “the Craters of the Moon” National Park.

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Also, there was this cool rock hill above town and every high school class since 1920 has carved their date into the stone.

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The first ten miles out towards Atomic City were okay even in 100 degree heat until the wind hit.
A mostly flat with periodic gradual climbs would be an easy day even without shade but we had super intense wind like the kind when you’re on a sailboat going fast and it was coming at us from the south relentlessly.
We couldn’t make any good time so the 65 miles which originally seemed like a shortish day started to seem like a can-we-make-it kind of day.
We stopped at a highway rest stop where the motorcycle guys (lots of them on these roads) had guns (yeah, real pistols) on their belts. THEY were complaining about the wind so given how hardcore they are, you can imagine what the wind was doing to us on our bikes.
We were riding slanted into the wind so we’d keep our balance.
It wasn’t the completely weird lifeless landscape of yesterday’s lava land but it was truly desolation wilderness. Not pretty. No homes. No telephone wires. No nothing just sun and desert.
The “historic market” at the rest stop clued us in. There are more nuclear reacters on the land that we biked through today than any other place on the planet! Take that, North Korea. (just kidding)

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Finally that nightmare ended and the last fifteen miles there was irrigated land and businesses and homes and we very very slowly slid in exhaustion into Blackfoot.
Blackfoot is a large city of 10,000 and has none of the charm of the past that all the other big and small towns have. Practically the entire downtown is for rent and all of the action is out by the interstate. That action is WalMart and chain fast food places.
The closest campground is 25 miles from here so we are in a Super 8 hotel watching “The Incredibles” GO PIXAR!
Go digital art!
By the way, those of you who know me in my non-bicycling regular artist life, the de young museum in golden gate park, say San Francisco! Say Bay Area, say HOME hired me for the Friday Night party to do my digital art thing August 31st! Yippee!
So I’ll be back before then. Sa wants to leave in a week. We have a friend driving from Chicago to San Francisco and we are going to meet here near interstate 80 and she is going to drive Sa back.
We thought Sa would be able to do her summer school and college prep stuff at night on this trip but there is no way she can get it done even with MP3 downloaded summer reading. She is currently listening to Jane Eyre which seems kind of comical in this time and landscape.
Also, it is just too hard. And Colorado is on fire which is where we are headed so….
I am not sure what I will do. I can’t go home with the friend as there isn’t room so I’ll bike on but if I get too lonely I will bike to an airport and fly home.
We’ll see. It’s all an adventure and already I have benefitted immensely from this experience.

June 30,Day 12, Fairfield to Arco

Sa and I started out early but the day ahead seemed hard. We had 90 miles ahead of us on a road with absolutely no shade. The only shade available was that from our bicycle panniers.

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It was over a hundred degrees and it all just seemed too hard.
We stopped at a stream in order to break up the day with some fun. The river was running fast with snow melt and we hung out there a while and it was fun.

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After that we made it to Picabo (pronounced peek-a-boo) which was one very cool store. We hung out there a while avoiding the heat and waiting for it to cool down before we started the next 43 miles which included the “Craters of the Moon” (black lava on both sides of the road) strip.
That was super weird. A long mostly flat stretch of nothing but deset and black rock. There was nothing else. Not even telephone wires. It was still a hundred when we were going through there even though it was 8 pm!
Because it was flat we got through there pretty fast and made it to our KOA campground destination by nine where we took our second swim of the day!.

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June 29, Day 11, Mountain Home to Fairfield

The day started out a bit slow with a flat tire from my wipe out the day before which we fixed easily. As I was locking my bike against the post, to get my morning cup of coffee, an entire bus load of teenagers on a Christian field trip went into the coffee shop before me. “Oh my fucking God” I say under my breath and then a hand places itself on my shoulder. I turn around and a male twenty-something counselor type says, “Don’t worry, you can go ahead of us”. Thankfully, I do. The sign on the tip jar says, “If you tip, less children will have mullet haircuts”. I liked that.
Sa and I set out completely clueless because we no longer have our “Adventure Cycling” elevation maps. Hwy 20, the same small road we were on in Oregon, was a straight red line on our map and it looked flat but it wasn’t. It just went up and up and up out of Mountain Home. Around each turn, we thought it would start to go down but it never did, for twenty five miles! There was a quick mile of down named “Devil’s Dip” but it only lasted one mile. Eventually, the climb did stop and 44 miles later we made it to Hill City where there was a building which was open and had a bathroom Yea! We got water!
You had to go through the saloon (which is often behind the store out here in these parts) to get to the bathroom. About six people of various ages were hanging out and talking and eating lunch. Seemed like they all enjoyed each other and that the saloon was more about being together than drinking.

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We bought an electrolyte drink from a young hip lady in skinny jeans from Britian. Like the Indian family you can’t help but wonder what brought them to the middle of nowhere.
We drank our drink outside on the bench and one of the old men in the saloon came out and he talked with us a while. He explained he was running for office and gave us each a wooden nickel. The other side said, “What’s freedom worth?” and had his name and campaign website. He was real nice and drove off in an old beat up white pick up truck.
It’s hard desert like land out here. Even if you are wearing shorts, on your feet you have cowboy boots.

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We rode on and made it to Fairfield where we camped for free in the city park. That city has the best water from public water fountains I’ve ever tasted.
We meet two kids who explained to us that winter had just ended and that it was spring and not summer yet which was why they had such good water. This didn’t make much sense but I believed them anyhow. They were very welcoming and happy.
After we set up our tent we met two nice young ladies walking with a stroller who showed us there was an owl above our tent.
He is very well camouflaged and in the middle of this picture.

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june 19, Day 1, Eugene OR to Rainbow OR

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Today we rode fifty miles along the McKensie river
We are camping in a nice spot by the river
We have a lovely set up with nice pads and sleeping bags in a nice tent.
We are all so tired we are going to bed at 7:30!!!
Wilderness is everywhere and there is fifty miles before food tomorrow. Nothing we’d call real food here. We are grateful for chicken pot pies for dinner. Fifty miles before food tomorrow and thirty of that is a 4,000 foot climb. Really? Really. At least that’s how it looks from the info we have. We have stocked up with power bars. Hoping to leave camp at six and be to food by lunch

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Changing One’s Mind

Noah has not been as committed as Sarita and I.

First he wasn’t interested and then he was.

And then he wasn’t.

He was trying to decide in an all or nothing way. We bought stuff. We returned stuff.

Recently we discovered the half-way option

He can do part of the trip.

He is starting out with us and at some point we will ship him back. This will depend on his mood and the proximity of a good airfare. Maybe Missoula Montana, maybe farther.