Category Archives: Dana Zed

July 18

We started out slow knowing we only had 50 miles to do today to get to Klamath CA. It was flattish the first 26 miles and beautiful as usual. We made the California border quickly.

I would like to put a photo here but I am writing this at night at a campground laundromat and have no Internet so all the pictures will have to come at the end when I hopefully get Internet tomorrow.

We make it to Crescent city early in the day. It is like Brookings only it is California which somehow makes it less subtle. It’s hard to explain but the difference is apparent immediately. There is more money in California but it doesn’t go to the right places.

The roads are awful and there is no shoulder. They are repairing the same part of the Klamath mountain road this year as they were last year when I biked this route.

The climb out of Crescent City over the mountain to Klamath is intense in a few ways. Even the RV folks were talking about how hard it was to pull their giant traveling homes up it. The most saliant aspect of the cumb is that it seems like it will never end. It twists and turns and when you think it will be over it just keeps going up. This happens repeatedly until you don’t let yourself hope it will be the end anymore.

It took us three hours to go ten miles. It was laughable. We could have walked it faster I guess. What makes the climb tolerable is it’s otherworldly semi magic beauty. We are not in full in magic yet because this is the beginning of the Redwoods and these trees are not super old.

During the climb, despite the cars, you still feel the silence and the fog drifts through the trees in that rays of God light way. It was about sixty degrees cold as we climbed and yet the sweat poured through us steadily.

At the top we got teased a bit because it goes down and up and down and up for a while so you think it’s over but it’s not.

When we did finally go down it was freeeezing! We had to stop twice to put on extra clothes. The fog was chilly and even with the fancy bike clothes, the sweat was not quickly wicking off so we were wet as well as cold.

We didn’t want to go down fast because the faster we went, the colder we got and also because the California road at any point can have a six inch hole or random lump (this never happens in Oregon) and there’s no shoulder.

We, in our always day glo yellow clothes (over our black long silk underwear) made it to Paul Bunyan trees of mystery towards the end of the afternoon. We had something between lunch and dinner there before we spent quite a bit of time in the museum.

This museum has a formidable collection of indigenous American artifacts. It has all been put together by one woman. It is astounding.

The traded beads I found poignant. Also the dress which uses the paid Swiss coins as decoration.

After trees of mystery we landed in the Mystic River campground down the road just a bit from the only store in Klamath.

Our site is superb. We have a giant redwood that we can walk through at the beginning of our site. Those before us left wood in the firepit so Noah made a fire and heated up his can of soup. No one is anywhere near us and we walk over a creek in a tiny covered bridge to get to the showers.

It’s all super perfect here in the redwoods. Well worth the effort.

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July 17

We got up at 6:30, ate breakfast (purchased at the grocery store last night) and got on the road by eight.

We stopped at a place that was a cross between a garage sale and a antique shop. They had a first edition Tom Sawyer! Noah got a truckers hat.

Folk in the store had endless suggestions of what we should see. It is a bit irritating when we are shooting to bike 82 miles today (making up for yesterday) and these locals are pushing an extra ten on us to see a gorgeous coast, like we haven’t already. We know they are well meaning so we are patient and semi smiling but they have all day to talk.

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Eventually we get out of there and roll into Port Orford after 26 miles of biking at 10:00. We have a good hearty second breakfast at paradise cafe and get two milkshakes to go.

We see quite a few folks biking 101 today. We saw a guy today who was biking on the other side of the street hauling a rig behind him. On the rig, was a six foot tall white cross. It happened so quickly, I couldn’t get a photo of it.

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By two o’clock we made it to Gold Coast, 56 miles away.

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We were exhausted after 56 miles but it was only two. We ate at the grocery store and got BenGay for our painful parts and kept on going.

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Then we came across the roadside prehistoric park.

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They don’t have these in Utah I’m guessing.

We biked on and on and on. Miles up 6.5% grades and down 6.5% grades over and over again.

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There was nothing but natural beauty between Gold Coast and the next town. At seven we rolled into this next town of Brookings for a total of 82 miles! We made up what we lost yesterday with all parts of our bodies were aching

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July 16

Today started out okay. We got to Moe’s bike shop in north bend not long after it opened. The store is located right after you come across the bicyclist’s bridge from hell.

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Alan Moe himself helped us and didn’t charge us anything! We didn’t really have a problem but the tire was under inflated and the tire rim was under the wheel rim in a small section which made it go bump slightly in every rotation. He inflated us and we left with big smiles.

We then went to the coffee shack. There are drive in coffee boxes everywhere. Next we went to a thrift store. I got a brand new bathing suit for 3.50 and Noah got a high school jacket for the same price!

Outside the store we met the local weatherman who told us there would be no wind. That was not the case! It slowly increased and became what felt like thirty miles in our face. We’d be climbing up the hill and look at the long grass on the side of the road and it would be bent to 45 degrees!

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There are old old cars on the road a lot up here. It doesn’t make sense since we are on the salt water coast which is bad for cars.

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In this area you see oyster shells everywhere. In some places more than others.

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We biked the wrong way for about twelve miles. It was a dead end road without the dead end sign. It was beautiful however and we had lunch there.

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While we were here being lost without knowing we were lost we meet four women my age from Salt Lake City. No kidding.

At the dead end we bike back almost to Charleston where Hwy 101 disappears.

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From there we take the one and only way from Charleston to Bandon which is

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And it’s every bit that. The seven refers to these crazy steep grade hills. It’s only twelve miles but it was almost impossible. The wind was way strong in our faces and as we climbed higher and higher it got quieter and weirder. At one point we heard this strange very loud repetitive yowl which I assumed was an animal but I am not sure as we never saw the source. Roads that were driveways looked third world.

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Half way through it started to rain. We were freezing with that and the wind. It was also beautiful and serenely soundless.

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Beautiful but still strange

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The long and short of it all is that at the end of only 36 miles we were exhausted beyond going further much less the next 28 miles to the campsite. We secured a tent site in an RV park but it was too wet and freezing to stay. We couldn’t go to sleep at five. The lady there understood and refunded us our ten dollars.

We then went to an odd cheap hotel run by a really nice Iranianan man who used to love in Oakland. It has a funny middle eastern touch in the room decor. It is warm! After we warmed up a bit we walked to the grocery store. After you bike all day every day, walking is a strange slow luxury. I got a progressive vegetable soup and heated it in the microwave. It was wonderful.

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Missing day

Somehow I missed the end of yesterday. We did sixty miles and slept at washburne memorial state park. It was freezing. The showers were on timers. Noah said his lasted fifteen seconds. Mine was two minutes. Maybe his fifteen seconds is my two minutes. Not sure.

The restrooms were full of odd insects.

We had a completely alone tent site with no one around us at all. The trees were very talk and swooshed and swayed in the wind. The ocean roared in the near distance but it sounded like the freeway to us city dwellers.

July 15 cont

We saw some fun things on the road.

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We stopped by crater lake and i got a flat there 😦 This is where it happened. Funny I took this random picture before I knew I got the flat.

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Because of this flat which we fixed quickly, the rim of my tire got bent and when we made it to north Bend the bike store was closed. We had done sixty miles and were up for another ten to sunset state park but decided to stay the night in town to get to the bike store in the morning as there isn’t another one for a hundred miles or more.

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We stop at Safeways for our food. At home I hate Safeway and out here I long for them. I get watermelon, bagels, avocados, cheese sticks, hummus and Odwalla chocolate protein shakes and cucumber and tomato salad from the deli. Noah gets thick meat chili or chicken pot pie or Mac m cheese or something else hardy. We try to eat breakfast out if we can get to a diner before noon.

This lunchtime at Safeway there were four other coast highway bikers. We waved to two of them and talked with the other two who were high school teachers. We discussed the clear cutting landscapes we had all witnessed. They were cool. Kids who have them as teachers are lucky.
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In this next photo you can see the bridge coming into north bend. It is no fun on a bike.

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Tomorrow the bike store opens at 9:30. It will not be an early start day. Some days are like that.

July 15

We did 15 miles before we got to a breakfast place. There was an outlet right next to our table for easy charging. Yea!

The old white guys at the table next to us were talking about the Zimmerman trial. They were not happy with the verdict. One guy kept saying “it just doesn’t feel right” the other guy agreed and said ” you just can’t kill someone in assumption” by the way these guys looked and by the truck they got into, I wasn’t expecting them to whole heartedly agree with me, but they did.

The wind is strongly at our backs today as yesterday. We practically flew up the long incline of Cape Perpetua. On another small summit lookout a fellow took this picture of us.

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We met a guy walking the coast highway. He was nice and in vacation from Portland for 15 days. He was on the quick weight loss walk. He said he did it last summer and was in great shape by the end but gained it all back as he was used to eating so much. This year he’s hoping ti keep it off.

We saw a cute girl walking the coast highway yesterday and mentioned her. He had met her. They were both cute and the same age and I sort of wondered why they didn’t hook up but I guess if you are into doing this extreme a hike solo in the first place, you are solo in the last place too.

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July 14

We did sixty miles last yesterday and sixty again today.

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We started by checking out Devils lake which was at our camp but we were too tired to see it when we set up camp.

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The biking is continually up up up and then a big downhill. Sometimes it’s smaller and as you are going down you can see the up so you pedal as hard as you can going down to do half of the up on momentum.

We got to Foulweather Cape and I liked this carved bench back.

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This is a road near foulweather.

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It is beautiful here. Photos can’t really capture it. In addition to the ocean, there are kinds of lakes.

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July 13

Ten miles out the next day we run into an old car show in Mcminville.

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Sometimes the trees smell great because they are alive but other times its because the sap smell is overwhelming due to clear cutting.

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We had a great lunch at a restaurant called “food is medicine”. Noah chose potato chips over French fries. When they came the were homemade and warm!!

We made it to the coast at Lincoln city. The first thing we did was go to and get ice cream because it was at the intersection of hwy 18 (what we’d been riding from Portland) and highway 101 which is the coast road up here. Hwy One doesn’t start until Ft. Bragg.

The manager at Coldstone asked us where we were going and we told him. Somehow I mentioned Hwy One and he corrected me passionately that Hwy One was on the east coast.

It reminded me of the SLC lady who took us seven blocks from the KOA to the train station to get our bikes and she got very lost doing it. She giggled and said she didn’t get out much. At first I thought she meant to other cities or states but as the ride progressed and we got lost again I realized she meant she didn’t leave the KOA much!

I guess the Coldstone guy doesn’t travel either. After ice cream we went to the hiker biker site at the state park. It was a great place with terrific showers. Only one other biker was there. He’d been there quite a while, knew everything about the neighborhood and was helpful.

July 12

Halfway between Portland and the coast there isn’t a state campground so we ended up in a private RV place.

On the way there we had an Italian dinner at the third oldest city in Oregon which is Lafayette. The bathroom sink was original with original fixtures.

The campground was OK and super windy. We were freezing and there was a hot tub but this giant sloth white guy was in there for hours so that when he finally got our and our dirty clothes were finally clean from the RV laundromat, we didn’t even want to get in there.

July 12

We got up at six did breakfast did the light rail and got to Portland by 9:30. From the airport we took the rail to the bus station. It is immediately apparent how hip Portland is. They even have bike racks on the light rail
on the side of which is a AAA sign that says “we help in bike emergencies too!”

Outside the bus station are pretend Andy Goldsworthy sculptures.

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We got our bikes and refunded in full our bus tickets and assembled our bikes which took hours. We stopped for lunch at a hip Mediterranean cafe recommended by the very most expensive tune up bike shop I’ve ever been to. Not even sure we needed it but we did it even though we are getting pretty good at putting together the bikes.

Alex and Guthrie were the guys in the shop and they were cool. Guthrie rides a surly long haul trucker and his bike blog is www. Pinchatfortune.com

From there we biked fifty miles. Here’s some photos from that day.

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