Category Archives: americana

Richardson State Park to Ft. Bragg

I packed up pretty early and started on my way.

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After riding a while I came across Daniel. He looks weird here but he wasn’t as weird as you would think for someone who was pushing his backpacks in a baby carriage up Hwy One. He had left San Francisco ten days ago and was headed towards Oregon. He had the word “LOVE” in small letters tattooed over his heart. I gave him a protein bar and we went our ways.

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Next I went to “Confusion Hill” where I spent a lot of time. It is like the “Mystery Spot” outside of Santa Cruz. It’s a place where gravity and the normal North/South magnetic pole don’t operate as they usually do.

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This totem plow is forty feet high and it was carved by one man and a chainsaw while the tree was standing! They built a scaffold around it for him to do this. There are taller poles but those are carved lying down and then stood up. This is the largest in the world carved this way. It is a massive happy thing. There is a lot of info about it except the name of the guy who made it.

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As you can see from the above photos i was having the light blurt Redwood problem here as well so lots of my photos are kaput! But some aren’t.

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I also have videos of a golf ball rolling uphill but Unfortunately I can’t upload it.

After I left there I spent a bunch of time at the “Peg House” talking with the owner who was a cool guy. It is a store and a grill and they have performances as well. It’s just outside Leggitt and has a campground with a swimming hole across the street. Felt like going back there. Owner, Gary, gave me holographic rainbow glasses to match my hi visibility day glow shirt before I went on my way.

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After Leggitt was “THE HILL” I had been hearing about. It was way awful. Maybe the worst of the summer! It was the only one that made my hands go numb. It was hot and horrible going up and I savored every slice of shade.

After the top

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Going down

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was a whole other story. The coast wind fog and cold kicked in so now I was grateful for every patch of sun and wanting earmuffs and gloves I was so cold.

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Eventually I got to the turnoff onto Hwy One and off 101. Yea!!! Only problem is that there is NO shoulder on Hwy One. Also there was another huge hill into Westport which I didn’t know about. It was entirely exhausting at the end of the day and I rested twice going up it.

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After that is was up and down up and down up and down. My phone (camera) died so I didn’t get all the beauty but a little of it.

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Again, the road is TERRIBLE. This is what they have instead of shoulders.

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After sixty miles I make it to my friend Dave’s house. Dave is married to my friend Nancy but unfortunately Nancy was away on work. Dave treated me like a queen and had truly a royal feast complete with tuna he had canned himself!! He provided me with a real bed with an amazing hand made quilt. He also let me relax in his hot tub and even folded my laundry! As if that wasn’t enough, he supplied me with food to go today and took me out to breakfast! I was in heaven.
From dave I went to the Internet cafe to do these blogs as I know I will not get Internet until tomorrow or maybe even the next day. It means I won’t get riding until twelve and I have sixty miles to hike and bike camp spot in
But it was worth it because guess who just walked in?

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Derek! His bike is busted so he will either rent a car and drive back to LA or maybe they can fix his bike. He will know in a couple hours. It’s great to check in with him but now I have to get on my way.

Fortuna to Richardson Grove State Park

I left my hotel room at eleven which is as late as i legally could. It was because of the electrical outlet and the WiFi.
I met an older man as I was leaving there who told me to take “The Avenue of the Giants” as an alternate route to 101. River who has been texting me tips and suggestions from further down the road told me the same thing.

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Before leaving town, I went to the bike store and got my chained cleaned and lubed (no charge, nice guy) and I got stronger sunscreen at Walgreens and a double shot latte at the Starbucks.

After that it was forty miles of beautiful scenery and small towns but no where for food so it was another day of trail mix and protein bars until six o’clock.

Avenue of the giants was pure magic. There is nothing like a 50,000 year old tree to keep your ego in line and your life in perspective.

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Very weird thing was, most of the photos I took in the Redwoods had a big blot of light in them, so most of the redwood photos look like this

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Maybe it’s dust, maybe it’s something else.

Also on the avenue, are wonderful little towns. Pepperwood with a population of fifty had two nice produce stands with vegetables from family yard gardens and a lady who made great bags out of animal food (horses and cattle and chickens) containers. Also it had a lovely bench. You see quite a few of these kind of benches in these parts.

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Also on this road are roadside attractions like little rooms and even tiny houses built inside ONE HUGE TREE long ago. It’s really quite magical mystical like in a kind of corny but real way.

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After a long day of riding I finally get to Garberville. I had heard about this town since the early 1980s when I had girlfriends who had girlfriends who grew Dope up there. It was sort of mythic in my mind and I was surprised to find it a two block town. It was however a very cool two blocks with Rastafarians and old hippies and cool youth. I had the best milk shake there I have ever had.

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And my all time favorite

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I traveled on with a salmon burger (so good) to go from Garberville and continued on the road to my state park. It got a bit scary because it was getting late (after seven) and foggy and I was hoping the Internet stuff I read was current as I passed a sign that said “save Richardson Grove Park”.
I made it there just before nightfall (that’s what I get for starting so late) and I finished the day at a hiker biker site in an old growth redwood grove. I was the only biker there!

I noticed when I paid my five bucks at the ranger entrance that the guy had colored pencils on the counter and asked him about that. His name was Thomas and he then proceeded toi show me every drawing in his sketch book and even left his station for a bit to go to his truck and show me his largest drawing which was on the back of park forms all scotch taped together. He had never taken an art course and simply drew what was in front of him. His stuff had a lot of atmosphere and he was nice to be around. He had a bit of what I’ll call tree presence. There was no hurry about him and his drawings took a lot of time.

I thought it was interesting how artists always seem to need their work to be seen by someone else and what would it be like if the act of just creating it was enough. ?

He (in his 20s) and I talked for so long that it was dark before I had my tent up and I never could find the showers.

The next morning when I tried to photo my site I had the same dust problem.

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Prairie Creek to Fortuna

The campground host told me I could continue on the biker path to get to hwy one so I did. I thought it was going to be a small bike path but in fact it turned out to be a hiker trail through the words which was difficult for my bicycle. It got smaller and smaller and then my phone died and it was a little scary because I wasn’t sure exactly if I was going the right way and the path was getting smaller and smaller.
When I made it out of the path onto the road there was a sign that warned me about bears and mountain lions and wild elk. The sign said not to hike alone. Then the sign told you what to do step-by-step if you were attacked by a wild animal which basically was to stand up and fight for yourself as in try to scare it away.
Now on the road with the park signs I go to the rest area in the bathroom. I don’t stay in there long but when I get out there is a small herd of wild elk between me and the road.
That takes a while but eventually I slip by them and am on my way.

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I forgot to say that when I woke up it was raining so I packed up my tent but in a very messy way. It was all covered with Pine needles and other stuff.
I have some random photographs from today but not a lot because it was rainy and cold and cold and rainy and misty and moisty. Therefore not so great for photographs.

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20120818-094148.jpg I am in Humbolt county now and the county fair is going on so hotels are packed full and RV sites are hard to know about until you see them so I booked a hotel while I was in Eureka huddled by a fake fire in Starbucks. There are no campgrounds near here in Fortuna. I paid good money for a huge hotel room and I was very happy to be dry and warm. There was a fantastic health food store in Eureka where I stocked up and had a great meal in my room heated up by the microwave and all. I also showered my tent clean and set it up by the heater and dried it all out. I did laundry and got this blog up to date.

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By the end of the day it got sunny but I was still grateful for this very nice hotel room. Yesterday was a seventy mile day. Today will be around sixty. I hope to go through Garberville and end up at Richardson Grove State Park biker site. It is supposed to have even more amazing redwoods.
Ah…

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Harris Beach OR to prairie Creek Redwood State Park

River leaves early as he’s on the home stretch and going 101 and now doing hundred mile days. We are going to get together in Berkeley and he wants to talk to Sa about colleges and help her be less stressful because he knows how horrible the process is!
When I leave Harris Beach for some reason Ido not manage to get breakfast in Brookings. I want a restaurant with WiFi and I can’t find one. Before I know it the town is over.

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This place sold driftwood letters. In the next picture the wood spells out DRIFTWOOD.

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Same thing food wise happened to me in Crescent City. My phone had died so I needed an outlet, preferably with WiFi. Therefore, I was in Starbucks researching when Allison from the biker campground pulls up. She is in her late twenties and going to SF solo like me. She tells me about Prairie Creek campground and we agree to meet there.
I went to the bike store to borrow a pedal wrench to change back into my cleats. The toe clips were not letting my feet be far enough forward on the pedals and I was getting bad knee pain in both knees and the climbs were harder so I changed back to cleats and am much happier.
Then I went to the hardware store to get a mat to sleep on as mine was now deflated all the way and I couldn’t find a restaurant that was right but I did stock up at the grocery stores as best I could.

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<img src="https://bikingacrosstheusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/20120817-221329.jpg" alt="20120817-221329.jpg" class="alignnone size-full"

The roads in California are awful especially compared to Oregon. There is often just a tiny shoulder and sometimes none. What makes it worse is that the white line is bumpy to alert drivers if they go over it so as a biker you can't even ride the line but have to be in the lane if there's no shoulder.
On top of that there was major road construction going on and it was on the downside of the Klamath climb so it was really scary going down. I met up with Allison again there. The construction guys wanted us to wait till all the cars had gone before we got to go. After ten minutes of cars we just went. Later we met biker guys who were told to go ahead of all the. Cars!
After the big Klamath climb and construction, I took Drury Scenic route. It was out of this world insanely beautiful. The redwood trees surrounded me and I felt like I was in a different time zone.
Some of those trees are hundreds of thousands of years old!!! Check it out in Wikipedia if you don't believe me.

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In front of a tree twelve feet in diameter it’s just impossible to understand on any level. I just kept thinking “Oh my God” and that was about it.

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It was freezing cold by the end of the day going through the redwoods. It had been cold and cloudy all day but by night fall it was the shivering kind. Coming through the tress at dusk was magical beyond belief.

When I got to the biker campground, there were four other guys from Harris beach already there. I joined up at their picnic table. Two of the guys were Canadian. One of them started on the East coast. Everyone’s destination was San Francisco.
We were all sorry to be out of Oregon with the road shoulders, espresso stands and free camp showers. My food was crappy next to theirs as they all had camping stoves but I was OK with a sorry dinner because what I was really looking forward to was a warm shower. However when I took my shower there was no warm water and I felt like I was in Guatemala. I got over it quickly and was happy to snuggle up in my sleeping bag in my tent with my book even though my new mat was not very comfortable. What can you expect from $12 at hardware store?

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Pt. Orford to Harris Beach

Well, as I was taking this photograph…

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Just outside the restaurant where I was writing, this guy slides up

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Enter River. How cool is he? He’s just (as in June) graduated from Cornell and has biked from Cornell (complete with tassel from graduation cap swinging from pannier) to the west coast and now down the west coast to Berkeley. Where did he go to high school? The infamous Berkeley High like my kids! Long story short, it was exit Derek enter River (his given name was Anthony). He tells me about this cool camp site and we agree to meet there that night and share costs before he goes into the restaurant for breakfast and I, tummy full, ride on.

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After a mornings ride, just as I was taking this photo again River slides up. And I get the ding-dong doorbell sound of a text arriving.

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We are just outside of the seaside town Gold Beach and River asks if I’d like to lunch together and I say yes. He consults Yelp and decides that the port harbor cafe has about the amount we want to eat at the price we want to pay so we go there. It’s a great family place on the water. In there I remember the text and it’s Derek in the same town at Subway. I tell him where we are but I know he wants to do fast food as he is going for a hundred mile day to make it to Crescent City because he wants to get to California today. I feel no such urgency so we don’t connect.
After lunch, River and I again agree to meet at Harris Beach, Oregon state park just outside Brookings, OR. He goes on ahead and I bike along stopping now and then to photo.

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And here’s a photo of my best friend Silver

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These next two photos were taken from the highest bridge in Oregon.

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I made it to Harris Beach where I went to the

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River in his extraordinary cool Yelpishness ordered a pizza to be delivered to our campsite!!! We shared it with this biker named Greg from Alaska.

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The whole biker camp was cool. There were thirty bikers there. Lots of us going alone but hooking up with each other. There was a lot of comparing gear, maps and touring strategies. It was fun. Lots of folks were going alone to SF.
Here’s a shot of packing up camp in the morning.

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Reedsport almost to Pt. Orford

The reason we stopped ten miles short of Pt. O was because the KOA right next to the road had a “Hot Tub Here!” sign and that just sounded too good after these 75 mile days so we stopped.
Derek who is still with me most of the time, made a great fire with one match and that was nice after my hot tub. Also he suggested that I didn’t need to set up my tent each time i camp as there are no bugs here. I followed that suggestion which saved me a lot of time.

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This part of the coast is forest until its ocean and sometimes it’s a little of both at once. There are also amazing stretches of sand dunes.

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We pass through little towns with clever signs like, “Rock on in, Roll on out” at the Auto Lube place and “Curl up and Dye” at the beauty parlor but they must have taken it too far because the place was now vacant under the sign and for sale.
There are lots of bridges to go over, some scary with no shoulder, some big climbs, and some easy with wide shoulders. Here’s a picture of one in the distance. They are all fairly old with atmosphere.

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People have fun things in their yards.

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Other people simply have beautiful old houses.

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The toughest part of the ride was “Seven Devils Drive”. It was up and down and up and down and up and up and at first I thought the “devils” referred to the hills but there were more than seven. Then I started noticing the side road names like “Drunken Devils Drive” and “Stock Still Lane” and “Gin Run”. It was this backwoods scenic route jag on the ACA (American Cycling Association) map and the whole hilly ordeal I think could have been avoided but that’s the sort of thing you know afterwards.
The coast here is gorgeous. The mornings are sunny and the afternoons are ghostly with thick fog. The wind can get so furious that I fear for getting blown over the edge. Of course the wind can’t do that to me but it is so intense I feel like it could.

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I have been writing this in a local homey restaurant with wood paneling, wifi and next to an outlet. Derek wakes up later than me and doesn’t eat a big breakfast. I thought he would have caught up with me here by now but he hasn’t so I’ll just carry on as my battery is at 100% and I’m done with yesterday.
California is 100 miles away.

Newport to Reedsport

We three left the hotel for the bike shop which opened at ten. Elijah needed a back brake cable. Derek needed a new intertwine as he’d given his to Elijah to fix his flat yesterday and I needed toe clips.
After a long heroic day of biking I have for the last time ended it by falling flat on my back from my bike simply because I couldn’t get out of my cleats in time. That really hurts and it is extremely embarrassing as well.
NO ONE we have seen touring is wearing clip in shoes which surprised me. Derek is wearing crocks! A woman we met on road named Katie is wearing sandals! And Elijah and the Brazilians (I’ll get to them later) are wearing fancy tennis shoes.
After the bike shop, we went to a fancy cafe in the old pricey part of Newpprt and had an absolutely perfect breakfast for not so much money. With full tummies and home backed cookies to go we set off towards 50 mile away Florence where Elijah needed to meet his friends.

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We went over lots of bridges today and they were all built quite a while ago with fantastic sculptural markers on both sides of the road on both sides of the river.

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This last one had these cool cast glass pyramid things. I hope they light up at night.
These are big seals shot from one of these bridges. I know they look tiny here but the zoom is only so much on the phone camera. They were big seals.

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Elijah was constantly setting up his tripod and photographing.

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We were often looking down on things, either from the bridges or from high on the cliffs down to the beaches below.

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Admittedly all this is very beautiful but the most beautiful by far thing I experienced today was these two incredibly amazing Brazilian guys we met.

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Granted they are good looking but that is nothing next to their spirits. They started biking in Buenos Aires Argentina!! And biked all the way up the atlantic coast of south America, entirely through the coast of Brazil and then at the mouth of the Amazon River they flew to Miami and from there biked to Chicago and from there they went to Seattle and they were planning to go to Alaska but their timing was off and it is too late in the season to bike in Alaska so they started down the pacific coast and are going all the way down and around to end up again in Argentina!

When we met them we asked them where they were going and with big smiles, they said “South”. There was such an appealing simplicity and lightness to them but there was nothing light about what they were carrying. There were loaded down with everything!

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You can see in the photo the guitar and the Brazilian flag and the box with the drum inside it. It was simply not an option for them to travel without instruments because they said they have to play everyday. They also had full camp cooking gear and solar powered battery panels and even a plastic alien animal whose head bobs up and down as they pedal. At home they are music teachers and teach about ecology through music. They were hugely inspirational and it was an honor and a joy to encounter them and in a way a huge relief to see such bright vital energy on the planet and basically they were just having fun. Wow. What an example. You can see the little bobbing toy I hope in this next photo.

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We carried on until Florence where the three of us had our final meal together in Elijah’s favorite Mexican place.

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It was sad to leave him especially as it took me so long to find him but such is life. I hope to see him again one day and I’ll get it right from the start if I have the chance.
Derek and I continued on another 25 miles to Reedsport. I am trying to do 75 miles a day which will put me home in a week.

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This is where I am for the night and these next three photos I shot coming back to tonight’s spot after my chocolate milk shake of a dinner.

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Plus one extra shot I forgot to include.

JUST THIS.

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Pacific City to Newport

I forgot to mention the bunnie rabbits at our campsite. There were lots and lots of them! The camp store even sold bunnie food. They just hopped around and were not caged in any way.
The kids at the campground particularly loved them.
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I got up early and went to a great cafe. This town has two campgrounds, a hotel, a pizza place, a taco place, a pub, a grocery store and a great cafe.
After tanking up on the blog and the coffee, I did laundry and Derek was up by then and we set off to meet Elijah in Lincoln City. After a huge climb, we made it and met Elijah! Hallelujah!

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We three had a great time riding together. Elijah is everything my good friend Joanna said he was. He’s lively , funny, smart, artistic, spiritual and has a 26 year old slender muscular athletic frame. He’s very elf-like in a good happy way.
These are some of the places the three of us passed through on our 55 mile day.

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This next photo was taken at Foulweather Cape where the winds reach 100 miles an hour occasionally. It was windy but that didn’t stop us from eating tons of huckleberries.

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Here’s one of elf man new age leader.

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Here’s more of our day’s terrain.

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Just as we were almost to our destination, Elijah got a flat.

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We carried on and found some blackberries. It seemed like we would never stop eating them. It was hard to tear ourselves away.

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Finally we settled on dinner at Lee’s Chinese which had a hotel. We got a huge room that was more like a family apartment complete with three beds, dressers, desk, round table. chairs, kitchenette and bathroom.
All this for $25. Each.
I was glad because I wanted a bath and I am way tired. My pad under my sleeping back inflates but then slowly looses air all might so it’s flat I’m the morning. There tonight I am also grateful for a bed.
Goodnight.

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St Helens to Warrenton

Alright then, I haven’t had Internet for a day or two so there’s a lot to remember and that’s what I will try to do.
Somehow I lost my lock between the bridge juncture and St. Helens which I realized when I stopped at the bookstore in St Helens so I went to the bike shop. It was run by an older couple who were very nice and pumped up my tires to the max as well. I wanted to keep my “Ride For a Reason” water bottle which I used throughout the last trip but my water started tasting like plastic so I switched it out for one of theirs.
By the morning I still hadn’t heard from Elijah so I didn’t go to Portland but back tracked the twenty miles towards the coast.
I again saw a lot of lumber which travels a lot on trucks but here it is on a train. Most often there are train tracks by the road and sometimes there is something on them.

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I had blackberries by the side of the road for breakfast. They were delicious.

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Didn’t drink from the well but the image was nourishing enough.

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I was feeling a little discouraged which one does at least a bit each day because it’s hard and you think to yourself “WHY am I doing this again?” especially when you are alone. I made it to Mt. Rainer for breakfast and the ladies’ room wall was covered with inspirational sayings.

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That helped remind me.

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The Oregon lottery is big. Some restaurants have fill in the number bubble sheets at the tables. They (and small grocery stores) will have a room in the back that you have to be 21 to enter. That’s where the machines are. The people going in and out of those don’t look so good. When a place has a room like this, it has a sign outside like this.

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It was more beautiful and rural and the terrain was no longer flat but summit after summit with downhills in between. One downhill was 2.5 miles of a 6% grade. That was intense.
Climbing over a pass that has been well traveled. . .

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Is often trees on both sides. Here are some shots of what’s in between the climbs.

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After 70 miles I made it to the coast.

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Yippee! It felt like a real accomplishment!! Only trouble was that Astoria was packed with people for the Regata and ten miles south in Seaside it was packed due to a national volleyball tournament and a big sand castle competition and so on for the Oregon coast in the month of August. It’s like salt water taffy and tourists and no place to sleep unless you’ve planned far in advance. Ha! So I went on over the bridge to Warrenton

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where I paid way too much for me for a hotel room and it was so full I couldn’t get Internet.
I did get a text finally from Elijah. He was in Portland and all bummed out and sort of mad at me for not hooking up with him! At first I couldn’t get it but then I saw it from his side and we texted back and forth and agreed to meet further down the coast in Lincoln City. It is 89 miles from Portland and 105 miles from where I was. We agreed to try to make it there by nightfall. I managed to book the LAST KOA RV site as there were no campsites left due to a golf tournament and other stuff going on there this weekend so it’s full.

Centralia WA to St. Helen’s

75 miles of pleasant rolling hills today.

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After 55 miles I went over the giant bridge from Washington to Oregon. It was freaky. Like going over the bay bridge but smaller. There was practically no shoulder and the cars were going an easy 60 an hour. I know it doesn’t look like much in this bad photo, but it was.

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The ride today was mostly rural but it did get industrial, especially with the lumber. The lumber industry is just fine in southern Washington.

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Even though there was something appealing about these giant trees being stacked like pencils, I still prefer them living.

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When I wasn’t in the trees I was in more open land like this.

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With the occasional curiosity.

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I stopped at an expresso box today and asked about the “Barbie” stands. The lady at this expresso box told me that there used to be three “Barbie” stands in her town but the town somehow managed to close them down. She said she was glad that her expresso place was family friendly.

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I was almost out of battery and I am camping at the city park which has nothing but a bathroom and the laundrymat didn’t have outlets so I am in a Mexican restaurant at a table next to a power outlet.

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I was supposed to meet my biking partner Elijah but we haven’t crossed paths yet. We were supposed to both start out from Bellingham August first but unexpected things on both our sides prevented that.
However those things passed and he started south from Bellingham and I started south from Seattle and it seemed last night from our communication that he would definitely catch up with me today but he didn’t.
He doesn’t have a cell phone. Hellooo? So it’s like impossible to communicate. When I got over the bridge I wanted to take 30 East to the coast. Hwy 30 is the Lewis and Clark trail by the way. Instead I took 30 another twenty miles south just in case Elijah was going to hitch a ride to Portland. Or what?
He has an iPod touch with a phone app. ? Right. So I leave messages and texts and emails but so far: nada. Sigh. So tomorrow I’ll back track over these last twenty miles and go another fifty more and end up at the KOA on the coast just west of Astoria OR.
Also, let me just give one loud shout out to Oregon for bike paths everywhere and large good shoulders on every road!
Not so in Washington. In Washington the white line is the shoulder. What’s up with that?

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