Category Archives: road trip

July 11

Literally two blocks from seedy hotel was Sensationally great hotel.

20130714-074500.jpg

20130714-074529.jpg

Flowers and fountains everywhere.

20130714-074627.jpg

I liked the way the floor changed going from one area to another; the dining room to the Libby for example.

20130714-074735.jpg

20130714-074750.jpg

It was all granite, marble mirror and brass. I felt we needed a break. I did yoga all day mostly in the pools.

We walked around SLC some. Dispute the quick change in neighborhoods, it is in ways an overly orderly city.

20130714-075019.jpg

We went to the two week old Microsoft store and played with the surface for an hour. I loved it! I might switch. I vote with my dollar and bill and Melinda gates donate tremendously and in the direction I approve. Also they took the same Buddhist positivity neuroscience class that I did and I heard real life first hand good stuff about them from that too.

20130714-075438.jpg

July 10 end

So we have all this stuff and we are in a slummy neighborhood and we can’t get it all into a taxi.

The train station is next door but they also have no seats and besides the train goes from SLC to Sacramento and then up to Portland. It’s not cheap and it takes 43 hours!

I am exhausted and freaked and have to get rid of the bikes but I can’t do that without buying tickets so I buy the Friday tickets to Portland and ship the bikes. The bikes go on the bus at midnight and will arrive in Portland Thursday afternoon.

We then book the cheapest hotel we can. The taxi driver is from Africa. He is bright bubbly and all white smiles. He is from Africa with a thick accent. I do not know what it has taken for him to get here and be driving a cab. This puts everything in perspective for me.

As we are getting out of the cab I ask him what there is to do in SLC. He chuckles shrugs his shoulders and says apologetically “Temple Square’s all we got here, just temple square.” He chuckles again and we get out.

The hotel is clean and the night desk clerk is “no extra” but not in a good way. He asks for my ID. There is a big sign that says “No visitors after eleven”.

We get to our room. Noah falls asleep immediately. I can not sleep. I search the web for a fantastic hotel to stay another night in SLC. Little America. It has three pools and a gym and a sauna and it is gigantic. Because it is soo big and there are lots of vacant rooms, and we want one tomorrow, we get a super price. Then I book a plane to Portland realizing I will lose Noah if we have to do 14 hours in the white trash bus atmosphere. We will lose the bike trip momentum and our desire to do it.

July 10 continued

Josh moved to Utah for the skiing but when he is not working or hanging with his wife ( who goes to Utah U for 5k yearly) he is running swimming and biking. He takes five hour bike rides after work, putting on the headlights at nine and pulling into home at eleven. Why? Because he is training for a ride in Utah that is 14,000 feet of climbing (up & down & up & down) in 88 miles ! It gets even more insane… Are you ready? He does it on a ONE speed! No gears.

He claims he is nice to us because so many have been nice to him. He just finished riding the continental divide and said lots of strangers helped him so he is paying it forward. After him, I got a lot to pay forward.

We ride from kimball junction which is where the hotel and first food is after the summit into Park City which is where the 2002 Winter Olympics were held. Beautiful farmland coming in.

20130713-182441.jpg

It becomes quickly apparent that this is an extremely wealthy place. High end everything especially restaurants and galleries.

This next photo pretty much sums it up.

20130713-182828.jpg

They framed a Banksy!! I love the little iron posts on either side. A Banksy depicting an idiot uprooting (killing) the beauty of nature to document it. The whole thing was so crazy Noah and I got a big kick put of it.

For those of you who don’t know, Banksy is THE most counter culture of all street artists. He is so wild and righteous in his way that no one even knows who he is and he’s never been photographed. Smile.

So we get our bikes boxed in Park City
and Josh takes us to the greyhound bus station where I have bought tickets online for the midnight bus to Portland. We hug him goodbye and wait in line within the atmosphere of poverty where folks have way more time than money.

When I get to the counter, the nice bus lady has no record of me buying these tickets. There is no room on the bus tonight or tomorrow. It is eleven at night. We have our boxed bikes and our panniers.

More later. Gotta go to dinner now.

July 10

We were done with the Rocky Mts and we weren’t even through the preliminary Wasatch Mts.
We went down the hill into town and booked into the first hotel we saw. There were no campgrounds until Jordanelle 14 miles away. Josh called and offered us his place to stay but we’d already committed to best western. He said there’s a rule to never quit or make big trip decisions at the end of the day. We were not following that rule.

Clearly we’d never make Denver in two weeks and the heat was unbearable. We decided to go back to Salt Lake City and then go to Portland and bike down Hwy One for a cooler easier route. We were through with the bristley desert and longing for a cool ocean breeze.

20130713-112513.jpg

We did not want to bike it back. To get ourselves with our bikes back was very problematic. All sorts of people shuttles buses and taxis wanted to charge us $125. Also we had to get our bikes boxed to ship to Portland and one can’t walk around with two panniers and a boxed bike. Josh offered to take us to Salt Lake City in the evening which was amazing since he already had to drive there in the morning for work at 7:00 and then came home at 5:30 and was willing to take us again at seven at night. Unreal kindness, right?

Here’s a little about Josh. First of all I wish I had a photo of him but I don’t. He was about 28 I’m guessing and nice looking. Bright lively eyes. Quick smile. Small nose. He was born in Pennsylvania, didn’t like his home life and begged to go to a ski academy boarding school. That’s how he left home at 14. He became an engineer and is doing well for himself “sleeping at seven thousand feet” as he puts it.

Ok. This day isn’t done but I am not sure how to save it so I’ll publish it and continue later. I am trying to get caught up.

July 9

Tired, after little sleep, we are not in great moods putting together the bikes. It is sweat hot by 9am. We started early on bike mechanics and tent round up but we don’t have the bikes together until about 9:30 and we don’t have them together well at all, especially mine. Seems when I boxed it up in Oakland, I left out a half inch ring on the neck.

We get them in rideable shape and get to the bike shop (Contenders) in SLC which Brett our bike man in Berkeley from Mikes Bikes has recommended. It takes us forever to get to them because the addresses in SLC are confusing and mapquest leads us wrong. 500 E W can be 5 E W or fifth.
People drop zeros and its all urban sprawl desert style. We go through good neighborhoods with old mansion homes and poorer neighborhoods. It can change from one to another in a block. After calling the Contender guys no less than three times, we finally get there. It is at the intersection of Ninth and 9th. We drop the bikes off and go across the street for breakfast. It is a cool neighborhood and we like it but there is no breakfast, only a cafe. I tank up on coffee after my fashion and especially after no sleep and Noah gets a drink and a big muffin.

At Contenders a guy named Ryan is super cool and completely knows everything there is to know about the routes around here. We want to go to Jordanelle State Park but we do not want to do interstate 80. Many people say you have to do 80. Ryan takes lots of time with us and explains all the back roads, twists and turns through emigrant canyon and such leaving only a tiny bit of 80 at the end.

We are FINALLY on our way and its 11:30 and a hundred degrees.

20130711-232502.jpg

20130711-232536.jpg

We climb from 4,400 feet to 7,000 and we are fine but starting to run out of water. We were going to buy groceries before we headed out but Ryan told us there was food 15 miles out so we didn’t. We reached the first summit

20130711-232954.jpg

And we were doing OK. The spider bikers which is what I call the speed demons in tight colorful clothing with big mirrored glasses are flying past us. One of them going the other way yelled to us, “You guys are AWESOME!” That was nice. We met one at the summit and he took a photo of us.

20130711-233455.jpg

After the up came the down and as fun as that is you know you are just going to have to climb up it again.

20130711-233811.jpg

20130711-233851.jpg

20130711-233925.jpg

Flying down to the reservoir, we had to climb up again to a little more than seven thousand again. We were not physically wasted in terms of exhaustion but we were out of water and had been sweating constantly. The climb was not steep but steady for hours and with all our self-supporting gear we were really slow.

We knew we were almost to the food and water Ryan mentioned when Noah’s legs started to cramp uncontrollably. He was in horrible pain and felt like he was going to die, like he had to go to the hospital. I knew cramps pass but still. Then I started to cramp as well but not as bad or as often. I was however cold with goosebumps even though it was a hundred Fahrenheit. We had to walk the bikes the last mile to the second summit.

20130711-235037.jpg

20130711-235117.jpg

By the time we got to the summit, there was a gas station and the cafe was closed but a few miles downhill, the gas station man assured me three times when I asked three times “Downhill? ALL downhill?” there were “too many places to eat” he said.
,

20130711-235557.jpg

We hung out at the gas station for an hour with Noah’s legs cramping and drinking water and apple juice and salted peanuts. I know it sounds crazy that we started with so little food but we had had a huge dinner the night before and thought we’d have food ten miles into the ride. We passed up that cafe thinking we’d eat at the summit where there was a Whole Foods. We didn’t know the summit was going to take forever. We climbed four thousand feet in five hours but only did around twenty five miles.

Noah’s legs stopped cramping and we got on the bikes to go downhill. We went downhill but then there was a little uphill and cramps started and we got off to walk. That’s when we met Josh. He stopped his car and asked if we were OK. No, we weren’t OK we said and explained our situation. He assured us that YES there was food and yes it was downhill. We exchanged phone numbers and he said he’d check in with us after his run.

We went downhill and found a hotel and checked in, fifteen miles short of our Jordanelle campground goal.

July 8th

We arrive in Salt Lake City around noon and figure we will go to the train station and pick up our bikes, take them out of the boxes, put them back together and then bike around town to the bike store and make sure we are OK with the mechanics before we start out.

Wrong. The train station is only open from 10pm to 5 am. Really. So we take the light rail (subway above ground) to the KOA and set up our tent and put our packed panniers in the tent and head into town (again on the light rail). The great thing about this light rail is that it just opened in April. Imagine riding on a subway that is three months old! It is so clean! And a large part of the downtown route is FREE! It’s $2.50 to come in from the airport but it is on the honor system. No one checks for your ticket. Wow. That said, this train is the best thing about this city.

There is ONE thing to do in SLC and that is

20130711-202747.jpg

Temple Square and it’s a square block. It’s 100 degrees here and the men are in white shirts with ties and black pants. Many men are dressed liked this. These Mormons don’t drink alcohol or coffee and don’t believe that dinosaurs ever existed. They think the dinosaur “issue” is a test from God and I’ll just leave it at that.

Everyone here is friendly and things are much cheaper than the Bay Area. The truth is you can go to university of Utah as a resident for 5,000 a year!! Gap products in the Bay Area that are always $20.00 (an item I buy every year) is $12.00 here. People are upset with the high price parking lots that charge $3.00 a day. (Not $2.00 an hour like Oakland) The seats on the light rail all face each other.

Family is big and shopping centers are very family friendly. In the food court, there is a large area of giant plastic animals on bouncy flooring for kids to climb all over. Outside there is a large square where water shoots up randomly and kids go screaming around and across it getting gratefully soaked in the way too hot weather.

20130711-215437.jpg

Anyhow, we killed a day in SLC and then got someone from the KOA to take us to the sketchy Amtrak neighborhood and we got our bikes. The night patrol at KOA told us they’d been having big problems with bike thieves and to keep our bikes in our RV. Right.

So we put the bike boxes and our gorgeous Ortlieb bags in the tent and slept outside the tent. Only problem with that was the bugs and the hot weather. Being in the bag was too hot but being out of it, we got eaten alive. So we got not much sleep.

Oh, I forgot to say that we ate dinner at this cool restaurant called “Diamond Lil’s” in a semi sketch hood which was in a super original pioneer old west days building which had so much cool stuff in it

20130711-221442.jpg

20130711-221457.jpg

Reedsport almost to Pt. Orford

The reason we stopped ten miles short of Pt. O was because the KOA right next to the road had a “Hot Tub Here!” sign and that just sounded too good after these 75 mile days so we stopped.
Derek who is still with me most of the time, made a great fire with one match and that was nice after my hot tub. Also he suggested that I didn’t need to set up my tent each time i camp as there are no bugs here. I followed that suggestion which saved me a lot of time.

20120815-095116.jpg

20120815-095137.jpg

20120815-095156.jpg

20120815-095218.jpg
This part of the coast is forest until its ocean and sometimes it’s a little of both at once. There are also amazing stretches of sand dunes.

20120815-095449.jpg

20120815-095459.jpg
We pass through little towns with clever signs like, “Rock on in, Roll on out” at the Auto Lube place and “Curl up and Dye” at the beauty parlor but they must have taken it too far because the place was now vacant under the sign and for sale.
There are lots of bridges to go over, some scary with no shoulder, some big climbs, and some easy with wide shoulders. Here’s a picture of one in the distance. They are all fairly old with atmosphere.

20120815-100209.jpg

People have fun things in their yards.

20120815-100319.jpg

20120815-100345.jpg

20120815-100400.jpg

20120815-100412.jpg
.

20120815-100544.jpg

Other people simply have beautiful old houses.

20120815-100630.jpg

The toughest part of the ride was “Seven Devils Drive”. It was up and down and up and down and up and up and at first I thought the “devils” referred to the hills but there were more than seven. Then I started noticing the side road names like “Drunken Devils Drive” and “Stock Still Lane” and “Gin Run”. It was this backwoods scenic route jag on the ACA (American Cycling Association) map and the whole hilly ordeal I think could have been avoided but that’s the sort of thing you know afterwards.
The coast here is gorgeous. The mornings are sunny and the afternoons are ghostly with thick fog. The wind can get so furious that I fear for getting blown over the edge. Of course the wind can’t do that to me but it is so intense I feel like it could.

20120815-101535.jpg

20120815-101550.jpg

I have been writing this in a local homey restaurant with wood paneling, wifi and next to an outlet. Derek wakes up later than me and doesn’t eat a big breakfast. I thought he would have caught up with me here by now but he hasn’t so I’ll just carry on as my battery is at 100% and I’m done with yesterday.
California is 100 miles away.

Newport to Reedsport

We three left the hotel for the bike shop which opened at ten. Elijah needed a back brake cable. Derek needed a new intertwine as he’d given his to Elijah to fix his flat yesterday and I needed toe clips.
After a long heroic day of biking I have for the last time ended it by falling flat on my back from my bike simply because I couldn’t get out of my cleats in time. That really hurts and it is extremely embarrassing as well.
NO ONE we have seen touring is wearing clip in shoes which surprised me. Derek is wearing crocks! A woman we met on road named Katie is wearing sandals! And Elijah and the Brazilians (I’ll get to them later) are wearing fancy tennis shoes.
After the bike shop, we went to a fancy cafe in the old pricey part of Newpprt and had an absolutely perfect breakfast for not so much money. With full tummies and home backed cookies to go we set off towards 50 mile away Florence where Elijah needed to meet his friends.

20120813-214337.jpg20120813-214401.jpg
20120813-215401.jpg20120813-220013.jpg

We went over lots of bridges today and they were all built quite a while ago with fantastic sculptural markers on both sides of the road on both sides of the river.

20120813-220532.jpg

20120813-220559.jpg

20120813-220620.jpg

20120813-220636.jpg

20120813-220701.jpg

This last one had these cool cast glass pyramid things. I hope they light up at night.
These are big seals shot from one of these bridges. I know they look tiny here but the zoom is only so much on the phone camera. They were big seals.

20120813-220939.jpg

20120813-221002.jpg

20120813-221030.jpg
Elijah was constantly setting up his tripod and photographing.

20120813-221143.jpg

20120813-221200.jpg
We were often looking down on things, either from the bridges or from high on the cliffs down to the beaches below.

20120813-221418.jpg

20120813-221520.jpg

Admittedly all this is very beautiful but the most beautiful by far thing I experienced today was these two incredibly amazing Brazilian guys we met.

20120813-221742.jpg
Granted they are good looking but that is nothing next to their spirits. They started biking in Buenos Aires Argentina!! And biked all the way up the atlantic coast of south America, entirely through the coast of Brazil and then at the mouth of the Amazon River they flew to Miami and from there biked to Chicago and from there they went to Seattle and they were planning to go to Alaska but their timing was off and it is too late in the season to bike in Alaska so they started down the pacific coast and are going all the way down and around to end up again in Argentina!

When we met them we asked them where they were going and with big smiles, they said “South”. There was such an appealing simplicity and lightness to them but there was nothing light about what they were carrying. There were loaded down with everything!

20120813-222828.jpg

You can see in the photo the guitar and the Brazilian flag and the box with the drum inside it. It was simply not an option for them to travel without instruments because they said they have to play everyday. They also had full camp cooking gear and solar powered battery panels and even a plastic alien animal whose head bobs up and down as they pedal. At home they are music teachers and teach about ecology through music. They were hugely inspirational and it was an honor and a joy to encounter them and in a way a huge relief to see such bright vital energy on the planet and basically they were just having fun. Wow. What an example. You can see the little bobbing toy I hope in this next photo.

20120813-223617.jpg

We carried on until Florence where the three of us had our final meal together in Elijah’s favorite Mexican place.

20120813-223807.jpg

It was sad to leave him especially as it took me so long to find him but such is life. I hope to see him again one day and I’ll get it right from the start if I have the chance.
Derek and I continued on another 25 miles to Reedsport. I am trying to do 75 miles a day which will put me home in a week.

20120813-224134.jpg

20120813-224213.jpg

20120813-224543.jpg

20120813-224601.jpg

20120813-224621.jpg

This is where I am for the night and these next three photos I shot coming back to tonight’s spot after my chocolate milk shake of a dinner.

20120813-224951.jpg

20120813-225007.jpg

20120813-225018.jpg

Plus one extra shot I forgot to include.

JUST THIS.

20120814-082248.jpg

Pacific City to Newport

I forgot to mention the bunnie rabbits at our campsite. There were lots and lots of them! The camp store even sold bunnie food. They just hopped around and were not caged in any way.
The kids at the campground particularly loved them.
20120812-212055.jpg
I got up early and went to a great cafe. This town has two campgrounds, a hotel, a pizza place, a taco place, a pub, a grocery store and a great cafe.
After tanking up on the blog and the coffee, I did laundry and Derek was up by then and we set off to meet Elijah in Lincoln City. After a huge climb, we made it and met Elijah! Hallelujah!

20120812-224525.jpg

20120812-224548.jpg

20120812-224608.jpg
We three had a great time riding together. Elijah is everything my good friend Joanna said he was. He’s lively , funny, smart, artistic, spiritual and has a 26 year old slender muscular athletic frame. He’s very elf-like in a good happy way.
These are some of the places the three of us passed through on our 55 mile day.

20120812-225118.jpg

20120812-225136.jpg

20120812-225153.jpg

20120812-225212.jpg
This next photo was taken at Foulweather Cape where the winds reach 100 miles an hour occasionally. It was windy but that didn’t stop us from eating tons of huckleberries.

20120812-225442.jpg
Here’s one of elf man new age leader.

20120812-225527.jpg
Here’s more of our day’s terrain.

20120812-225623.jpg

20120812-225637.jpg

20120812-225654.jpg

20120812-225713.jpg

20120812-225740.jpg

20120812-225952.jpg

20120812-230011.jpg

20120812-230031.jpg

20120812-230045.jpg

20120812-230101.jpg

20120812-230118.jpg
Just as we were almost to our destination, Elijah got a flat.

20120812-230234.jpg
We carried on and found some blackberries. It seemed like we would never stop eating them. It was hard to tear ourselves away.

20120812-230441.jpg
Finally we settled on dinner at Lee’s Chinese which had a hotel. We got a huge room that was more like a family apartment complete with three beds, dressers, desk, round table. chairs, kitchenette and bathroom.
All this for $25. Each.
I was glad because I wanted a bath and I am way tired. My pad under my sleeping back inflates but then slowly looses air all might so it’s flat I’m the morning. There tonight I am also grateful for a bed.
Goodnight.

20120812-231639.jpg